Islands of beauty in Samogitia

Islands of beauty in Samogitia

(or a pleasant weekend in Palanga and Kretinga region)

Samogitia is the northwest ethnic region of Lithuania of extreme beauty. It is famous for its estates, hilly relief, dramatic history and specific dialect. Undoubtedly, one more attraction is proximity to the Baltic Sea with white sand beaches, wonderful seacoast nature, not to mention the dramatic and moving history of Samogitia. For many centuries, it served as a shield protecting Lithuania from Teutonic Knights attacks. Officially, Samogitia was part of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania since the 12^th century, and the German Order confirmed the fact in 1422 by Melnas treaty forever after the Grunewald battle. However, Samogitia maintained certain autonomy, both political and spiritual, until the 19^th century. Even nowadays, some Samogitians do not want to accept the fact of “living in Lithuania”. Accroding to them, Samogitia is “a totally separate country”. They “were in no hurry” to be baptized, Christianity came to Samogitia only in 1413.

Kretinga is one of the oldest settlements of Lithuania, first mentioned in 1253. Sometimes it is called capital of Franciscans as there are even 5 monasteries. Several famous families left their imprint in this beautiful green seacoast town: Chodkevičiai, Sapiegos, Masalskiai, Zubovai, Tiškevičiai. In 15-17^th century, Chodkevičiai ruled Kretinga estate. Tiškevičiai contributed greatly (19^th century): they reconstructed the Art Nouveau style palace, a four-floor glass orangery was built, in which the greatest private winter garden in Europe was established; the first hydropower station in Lithuania was installed in the mill. In 1992, the Kretinga palace housed Kretinga museum. Presently, park with three cascade pool equals the then one by beauty. Visitors pay special attention to astronomical calendar with sundial: it is an interesting composition of 13 sculptures presenting old Baltic culture traditions. One more treasure of Kretinga region are boulders covering the whole Akmena river basin.

K. Orvidas established Orvidai farmstead-museum. For many years, he brought stones and trees of interesting forms from Salantai area to his farmstead creating monuments and various sculptures “to recover, pray and meditate in this space”. The farmstead includes numerous diverse details: stones, trees, a tank, old things, various compositions. The museum could be called a museum-mystery. The farmstead seen from above is of a distinct triangular form – the eye of Providence.

Japanese garden “Samogitia”. It is one more oasis of philosophy, beauty and phantasy. Doctor Šarūnas Kosmauskas from Palanga created one of the largest Japanese gardens in Europe (16 ha) with a collection of thousands of bonsai trees, stone garden, sakura trees and pools. He invited Master H. Watanabe with his team from Japan to create the garden.

Japanese garden is an inseparable part of Japanese culture. It unites religion, art and respectful attitude towards nature. Traditional Japanese religion is Shintoism (path of Gods in Lith.). It is a pagan religion worshipping kami – nature, its objects (trees, mountains, stones, springs) and phenomena. Japanese garden is the place, where Beauty and Harmony meet.

After a rich day and having tasted Samogitian dishes we go to the seacoast, the summer capital of Lithuania Palanga.

Palanga was established in 1253. The Order was pushed out of Samogitia after Grunewald battle, and in 1453 Palanga was finally given to the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. For many years, it was the most important port of Lithuania. In 1824, count M. J. Tyszkewicz, tsarist army colonel, acquired Palanga. In 1991, many sanatoria, guesthouses were privatized. Now Palanga is the most popular seacoast resort of Lithuania undoubtedly having its symbols.

One of them is the Jūros tiltas. From it, a wonderful view to the dunes and the sea opens.  In the 19the century, count Tyszkewicz constructed a pier for ships, however storms used to cover it by sand. Later the pier became a favourite site for walks. In 1998, a new pier was built put on concrete poles (length 470 m).

One more symbol of the resort is Kurhaus. In 1875-1876, count Tyszkewicz built a service centre, which then was called Kurhaus. It contained resort hotel with a restaurant, a casino, chess and billiard halls, a library.

Palanga Church of the Assumption of Virgin Mary is a Neo Gothic church with a tower of 76 m. An impressive pulpit and three altars decorated by bas-relieves made of French marble (sculptor Mona). Count Felix Tyszkewicz financed the construction. Palanga Botanical Park (Birutės Park) is one of the most beautiful parks in Eastern Europe of English style with classicism elements of planning. The park was laid out in 1837 by count Felix Tyszkewicz in Birutės forest considered sacred. The author of the design is a famous French landscape architect E. F. Andre. It is thought that about 500 sorts of trees and bushes brought from Berlin, Koningsberg as well as from other European botanical gardens were planted. The dominating species is pine, black alders, firs and other trees grow there.

In 1897, in the central part of the park Neo Renaissance Palace (arch. F. Švechtenas) was built, residence of counts Felix and Antonina Tyszkewicz. They lived here until 1941. Amber museum was established in it in 1963. Now it contains over 30 000 exhibits.